Jhalawar

Jhalawar is a sleepy little town that doesn’t see many foreign tourists, which made it a perfect stop for me. There are a number of amazing temples in the center of town, and the very large and imposing Gagron fort located on the outskirts of the town. Gragron is one of the rare forts which is both a vana and a jala durg-both protected by both forest and water, with woodlawn to all side and the Mukundarrah hills behind.

Gagron Fort
Shantinath Jain Temple

As luck would have it, the Chandrabhaga Fair was just beginning when I arrived. This is a local cattle, camel, and buffalo fair. It is much like Pushkar, but in my opinion much, much better. This fair didn’t have any of the touristy “state fair” feel and was much less attended by foreign tourists. The cattle merchants and locals were much more relaxed and were very happy to be approached for photograph requests and just to chat. I felt like I was given a second chance at some great photos that I really didn’t feel I got at the Pushkar Camel Fair.

Camel at the Chandrabhaga Fair
Camel grazing at the Chandrabhaga Fair
Camel merchant, Chandrabhaga Fair
Local woman at the Chandrabhaga Fair

The town of Jhalawar was also hosting the muslim festival of EADS the day I arrived, which was also an added bonus! I got some amazing photos and met some really great folks at the festival and as I walked through the town. The town had large, ancient gates that led to old sections of the original town. As wedding season had just started, all of the jewelry merchants were out in full force, their large safes open to display their treasures for future brides.

Young women at the EADS Muslim festival, Jhalawar
Young men at the local EADS Muslim festival, Jhalawar
Young man with Pakistani flags, EADS Muslim festival, Jhalawar
Market scene, Jhalawar
Jewelry merchant, Jhalawar

I stayed at the Prithvi Vilas Palace. As luck would have it, I was between groups of bookings so i had the entire palace all to myself!!! The Maharani Ira Kumai of Jhalawar is still in residence with her husband here between visits from Jaipur. Her husband was not on site, but she was very gracious and had dinner with me in the dining room and gave me a backstage tour of the residence and palace grounds. I had a great room and the grounds were very secluded, filled with peacocks and lush greenery.

Exterior of Pritvi Vilas Palace, Jhalawar
The Maharani Ira Kumai of Jhalawar

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